The basin contains a pleasant trio of three, granite encased lakes; yet pockets of large red firs provide comfortable camping spots. Especially with fall or spring clouds overhead, the setting is inspirationally dramatic although starkly dominated by glaciated granite and clumps of forest. Views of North Fork American River canyon and Snow Mountain easily make you forget you’re only a few miles from I-80. Salmon Lake lies near the western rim of the basin and easily accessed. Very popular, much of Loch Leve Trail has been worn by thousands of hikers until at times it looks more like a rocky rivulet than a trail.
...with fall or spring clouds overhead, the setting is inspirationally dramatic...
Waters of the three lakes seem more azure against the cornflower blue of skies streaked with bulbous clouds in five shades of white hanging above. Picture perfect.
3.0-5.0 miles, difficult, elevations: 5780’-6860’, 3½ hours. Tread: much of the upper half very rocky and hard on the ankles.
I love the high-country granitic basins in the fall – this is one of my favorites and is a great way to find some solitude. Following is the article I wrote for Sierra Alive for their fall 2007 issue, but the great publication was shut down before it was published.
Loch Leven Lakes in Fall: Ah, Solitude at Last
Thousands of acres of steel-gray, glaciated granite tapestry dominate Loch Leven Lakes region; each fall, splashes of burnt orange and rustic red leaves of sparse undergrowth look especially inviting. Small clumps of lodgepole pine have established themselves in scattered, threadbare pockets of soil; massive hulks of Jeffrey Pine and red firs have dipped their toes into rich, deeper soils sprinkled around the shores of each of the three lakes
Celebrating survival in this rugged landscape, the few quaking aspens display flamboyant yellows shining with the vivid glow of arrays of candles. The intensely, bright yellow splashes are just as brilliant against the muted grays as a prayer candle in church. Just as inspirational.
Waters of the three lakes seem more azure against the cornflower blue of skies streaked with bulbous clouds in five shades of white hanging above. Picture perfect.
Freshened by breaths of fresh air heralding the coming winter’s nippy breezes, the sun’s rays are warmly welcome. Mosquitoes are gone, and this time of year, especially week days, most likely you will have this all to yourself.
Within our own backyard, the Tahoe National Forest, Loch Leven Lakes Trail is the most popular hike on the Forest. Often too popular for the solitude Mother Nature prides in herself. Vehicles parking at the sizeable trail head on Old Highway 40, a quarter-mile above Big Bend Visitor Center, often overflow onto the sides of the road.
When using this option, cross the railroad tracks carefully. “Stop, look and listen” seldom fits better into a trail description. Still, this bit of excitement is the last until the switch-backed trail finally climbs, and climbs, out of routine forest setting into a rewarding view of the lower lake. The trail’s consistent, switch-backed grade, although challengingly long, is, at least, suitably moderate.
By late fall you can have the parking area to yourself — unless you share it with only a couple other seasoned locals that know fall hiking can be even better than summer. Except for swimming. Leave the bathing suit but bring an empty memory card in your digital camera. Then again, some hikers feel these are good options during summer too.
If you like angling, carry a fishing pole. Trout become more active as they enjoy the cooling weather as much as we do. They are hungrily feeding to prepare themselves before winters cover lakes with ice and turn their blue world into black.
Still another trick of seasoned locals will allow you to beat the swarm that parks above Big Bend who then they must climb the full eleven-hundred feet elevation to Lower Loch Leven. Instead, drive most of altitude gain above I-80 on a dirt road that climbs from the Yuba Gap Exit on I-80 and continues by Lake Valley Reservoir and tiny Huysink Lake. Even in summers, this dirt parking area rarely has few vehicles. Bumpy ride, yes; dusty for the last two miles, yep, but your SUV or pick-up will love the drive.
Hiking one-way, it is only a half-mile shorter than the Big Bend route, but more importantly, the climb is less than half as much. Two additional high-mountain lakes are bonus picture opportunities. The first is unnamed, but the trail skirts along the south end and the winter sun can offer perfect back-lighting over your shoulder. A quarter-mile spur trail will drop you slightly from the main trail down to granite encased Salmon Lake. This small, rewarding detour, plus a scramble of a few feet over a rocky knob, are the only segments that nudge hiking difficulty moderately above easy. The view of Snow Mountain and the yawning wild, Wild canyon of the North Fork of the American River more than reward hikers for negotiating a few feet of scrambled trail.
| Miles | Elevation Range | Options |
|---|---|---|
| 3 | 5780’-6860’ | Destinations can be any of the three lakes, 3 miles to 5 miles. Salmon Lake is a nice sidetrip. Fisher Lake and Nancy Lake are cross-country scrambles from the Upper Loch Leven Lake. Take a good map and great hiking boots for the boulder hopping. The plateau is beautiful and worth spend time. The ultimate option is to drop down into the North Fork of the American River via the Cherry Point and Big Granite Trails. |
Trailhead is located 0.25 miles east of Big Bend on Old Hwy 40. From there it’s 3 miles to the Lower Lake. High Loch Leven Lake is 5 miles total distance from the trailhead. The trail to Salmon Lake via Salmon Lake Extension Trail connects at the far (southern) end of the Lower Lake.
Lower to Middle Lake: 0.3-mile climb begins and ends at 6780’ to 6790’ elevations but the ridge in the middle is closer to a 100 feet rise with a rocky drop. Middle to Upper Lake: 0.8-mile climb 6790’ to 6900’. One short stretch requires scrambling up granite.
I’ll say it again, this is one of my favorite areas, but I hesitate to attract many more users in the summer. In fact it’s so popular, I prefer to hike into the area in the fall. The colors are inspirational and the solitude even more so. However, I prefer to hike in via Salmon Lake.
Many recreationists make this area over-night destinations. Given the threadbare trail beat to near-death by thousands of hikers and the numerous primitive camping spots in the trees, probably the area is too popular. In fact, many spots are located between the lakes in the search for space and solitude. Camping in the summer is a social, almost party-like atmosphere. If you want solitude, use the area early or late or at least week-days. The lakes are especially popular for swimming and sunbathing. The scenery is some of our best.
My notes for mountain biking apply nearly equally to trail riding. Yet, well trained horses can handle the rocky sections better. Unlike the mountain biking recommendations, I don’t advise trying to carry horses over the short, rough stretches – but leading them is a good option.
The 1100 feet elevation climb over often rocky single-track makes the ride challenging and not very inviting. The destination certainly is worth the effort, but the ride via Salmon Lake Trail is much more appealing. Still there are a couple of sheer rock stretcheson both trails that pushing or carrying bikes are the only options.
Rainbows and Eastern Brook 10”-15” (stocked 2000), and some slightly larger browns can be found. Given the popularity as a destination and swimming holes, the competition reinforces the fact that fall is the best fishing season. Early spring, as the ice melts to open up the surface (and before the waters warm up enough for swimming), also make a better choice.